Saturday, April 20, 2024

An Eclipse, Some National Parks, and a Few New Birds on the Side


I have never had the experience of witnessing a total eclipse of the sun but I have encountered a number of people over the years that have had that chance. To a person they have all told me that such an event can be a life changing experience. So when our friends Roger and Loreen Ruegg suggested heading out to Texas for this spring's eclipse, we jumped at the chance. Danette and I also took advantage of this opportunity to add four more national parks to our list of those we have visited together and along the way I even managed to add four more life birds to my North American list. It was a long drive but totally worth it!

After stopping in Bakersfield to see Danette's mom we headed out into the desert for our first National Park along our route - Joshua Tree. After our drive we stopped at Big Morongo Preserve where we hiked a ways down the canyon that connects the Mojave Desert above with the Colorado Desert below. A thoroughly enjoyable hike that turned up some early spring birds and helped to get our legs warmed up for more hikes along the way. We then headed into the park and drove the loop that connects the west entrance to the north entrance taking a side trip to Keys Viewpoint. While I had visited Joshua Tree many times, this was Danette's first visit. She thought it spectacular and commented that although the Joshua Tree's were very cool, it was the geology that really defined the park. We were up early the next morning to drive through the park from north to south and enjoy the sunrise on the way. Then it was on to I-10 and a long drive to our next overnight stop, Portal, Az. and the Chiricahua Mountains.

The Chiricahuas are one of my favorite places on the planet and I've always wanted Danette to see them. We arranged it so we could stay in Portal and then have the following morning to hike along the South Fork of Cave Creek. The creek was running pretty high and it kept us from being able to go very far up the canyon but the morning was beautiful and the walk very enjoyable. Once again early spring birds were present but the more spectacular birds of the area had not yet arrived for the season. We briefly connected with Roger and Loreen here, they hiked in the canyon in the evening and then were off very early the next morning for the long drive to Austin. It would take us two more days to get there. Springtime is a good time to be driving in this part of the world, we found west Texas to be pretty green and we really appreciated all the flowers along the edges of the roads we were driving.

Our time in Austin was mostly focused on the eclipse but we did have a chance to walk around and take in a pretty cool city. I slipped away early on one of our mornings there to Balcones National Wildlife Refuge and managed to add the Golden-cheeked Warbler to my list. Then on my way back into town found the large group of Monk Parakeets that were nesting on the power polls downtown.

With the Rueggs in Austin


Our last day in Austin was all about the eclipse. We headed out early to meet Roger and Loreen about an hour west of town where they were camped. It was cloudy the entire morning and we were really concerned that we may not get to see the spectacle. However, as the event began the clouds worked a bit in our favor to act as an atmospheric filter. Then as it neared totality the clouds seemed to vanish. The period of totality was surreal. We all looked at one another with pure wonder on our faces. I'm so glad we were able to experience this specticle, well worth the journey to Texas.

Big Bend National Park


We left Austin early the next morning and headed for Big Bend National Park. We spent the afternoon driving through the park on the recommended auto tour route and were very impressed by both the mountains and the Rio Grande Valley below and south of them. I will have to return some day in the future with the bird nerds so we can get the Colima Warbler whose only nesting location in the U.S. is high up in the mountain region of the park.

We spent the next morning at Davis Mountains State Park near Alpine, TX. Danette did a short hike while I staked out the bird feeder station as I had been told that this was the easiest place to see Montezuma Quail in the entire universe. They of course knew I was coming and so stayed away but I did get nice looks at another new bird, the Black-crested Titmouse.

Black-crested Titmouse


Our final two new national parks came on the following day. Carlsbad Caverns and Guadalupe Mountains National Parks. We met up with Roger and Loreen for our tour of the caves and they were, in a word, spectacular. Witnessing the flyout of the Cave Swallows gave me my final new bird of the trip. These caves were a true highlight of our trip. Thankfully, Danette's pictures came out really well so we have some good memories of our time underground. After a nice picnic at the Bird Springs unit of the park we headed south for an afternoon hike in Guadalupe Mtns. 

Carlsbad Caverns National Park


We then took a scenic route through the center of New Mexico and on into Arizona driving through Petrified Forest National Park which we had visited previously before hitting the interstate for our return to California. We stopped for a night at a fun little inn in Williams called "The Red Garter", drove to Bakersfield the next day and then home to Napa.

We really had a fun time on this trip. Thanks to our friends Roger and Loreen for the idea and having us along. If you ever get the chance to see a full eclipse, do it!

Link to our photos from this journey.