Monday, May 20, 2024

Butterbredt, Owens Valley and Sierra Valley - A Migration Bonanza

Upper Butterbredt Canyon

During the second week of May I made my annual pilgrimage to the Mojave Desert. I was fortunate to be joined this year by my good friend Michael Morris who came down from Eureka for the trip. Although we ended up doing a lot of driving we did have an amazing trip seeing 164 species over our 4 days.

        See our complete bird list                                                See our photos from this trip

After leaving Napa we headed straight for Kern County and the Kern National Wildlife Refuge where we started our trip list, a list that would grow to 94 species by the end of the day. After a few hours of birding the tour route at the refuge and picking up what we would normally expect to see there, we headed east through Bakersfield and on into the Kern River canyon. Our plan was to travel along the river up the canyon to Lake Isabella then in Weldon take Kelso Valley Rd. and then Butterbredt Canyon Rd. over the pass and down to Butterbredt Spring. As we drove over Butterbredt Pass and then down to the spring we added a lot of species that were using the migration corridor of Butterbredt Canyon. We camped at the spring that night and woke up to wave after wave of migrants coming up the canyon. In all my years of coming to Butterbredt, this was by far the most impressive bird display I have ever seen here. While we didn't see any rarities, it was the sheer number of migrants that was notable. Warblers in the spring and down the canyon and other passerines in the grove of Trees of Heaven just to the north of the spring. Nature is amazing!

After an incredible morning at Butterbredt we began our journey up the Owens Valley. As we made our way north we checked out Sage Flat, the Owens River and then headed east on Hwy. 168 to climb our way up into the White Mountains. We were able to go all the way up to the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest visitor's center at Schulman Grove although it was not yet open for the season. We added a few high mountain birds to our list here and then retreated back down to 9,000 ft. and the Grandview campground for the night.

Sierra Crest from the White Mtns.

The next day saw us returning to the Owens Valley where we made several more stops in the morning before turning back towards the White Mountains to drive into Silver Canyon. This four-wheel drive road climbs all the way up to the plateau at the top but it is very steep and rough in places. We only went a little ways up this canyon, far enough to add a few more species to our list, namely Chuckars which gave us great looks along the road.


From here we continued north to Benton Hot Springs and then using Benton Crossing Road and Owens River Rd. made our way back to Hwy. 395 so we could drive the June Lakes Loop. By late afternoon we found ourselves at Mono Lake County Park which is usually pretty birdy. However, we found that as we had moved north the numbers of migrant species we were seeing really began to decline. It was clear that the waves of migrants we were seeing down in the Mojave had not gotten this far north. We did however add a number of resident species to our list as we moved north. 

Our plan that night was to camp at a Forest Service campground just in Nevada along Desert Creek. However, the combination of a navigation error and a very rough road forced us to change our plan and that night we ended up camping along the West Walker River on Hwy 108. We continued to add birds to our trip list the next morning around the campground and then at the Two Rivers Preserve just down the road. From here we decided to finish our trip by driving north through Reno and then visit Sierra Valley before crossing back over the Sierra at Yuba Pass. 

Michael along the West Walker River.

On our way north we detoured just outside the town of Walker and drove a forest road up to the headwaters of Mill Creek. This took us up a beautiful little valley that was dotted with Beaver ponds. I'd not been up this road before and it was well worth the trip. We found our Clark's Nutcracker and White-headed Woodpecker along this route.

Later that day we arrived in Sierra Valley. This large and wet valley sits just on the east side of the Sierra crest and has always impressed me as yet another example of the diversity of the natural wonders California offers us. Here we picked up our last two birds of the trip, Sandhill Cranes and a Willet. Then it was over the pass and down to Downieville for a dinner stop and on back to Napa.

I had a great time traveling and birding with Michael again, although next time I think I will try and cut down on the number of miles we drive in the pursuit of our feathered friends.