A Grand Lassen Loop

Being a birder I am constantly reminded that California has something for everybody. Of all the world’s major biomes it seems that all we lack here is a tropical one. This is one of the reasons why you can possibly see 673 different species of birds here. We have the luxury of deciding what kind of birds we want to find and then choosing that part of the state to plan a trip to. This past week it was the western slope of the extreme north end of the Sierra and the edge of the Modoc Plateau.

Our trip essentially made a grand circle around Mt. Lassen. Once again Jeff Manker joined me for this adventure, making it our third birding excursion together this year. Leaving Napa well before sunrise we headed north to Chico to begin our trip. Leaving Chico on Hwy 36 we headed east to Humboldt Road. We followed Humboldt Rd. and Humbug Rd. up to Lake Almanor. From there our road took us to Eagle Lake and on to Ash Creek Wildlife Area. We then followed Hwy 299 to Burney Falls and back down the mountain to Redding. Our circuit finished up at Bidwell-Sacramento State Park with the extremely remote possibility of seeing a Yellow-billed Cuckoo. We had an excellent trip recording a total of 114 species over the three days seeing most of the expected ones we were looking for. Highlights included Black Backed Woodpecker on the ridge above Soda Creek, Hermit Warblers in Humbug Valley, Eagles and Owls at Ash Creek, Bank Swallows in Fall River Mills, and Black Swifts at Burney Falls.

Butte Creek above Butte Meadows

Every time I have a chance to travel to this part of California I am amazed by the unique character of the topography and the scenery it has to offer. To begin with the beautiful drive up the Humboldt Road through Butte Meadows and on into Jonesville reveals a different way of living that some Californians are fortunate enough to enjoy. It also serves to remind me that I have literally a thousand other roads just like it here in California to discover and explore. Also noteworthy is the Humbug Valley, a vast high and open meadow to the west of Lake Almanor that is nothing short of spectacular. There is a PG&E campground here called Yellow Creek that is tucked into a grove of trees on the edge of this meadow. It holds the distinction of being one of my favorite camp spots in the state. We had our most productive morning of birding in this area picking up excellent looks at Cassin’s Finch, Evening Grosbeak, Sandhill Cranes and a Calliope Hummingbird.

Humbug Valley near Yellow Creek Campground

Travelling east from Lake Almanor we encountered several other large open meadow areas that were breathtaking in their scenic quality. Crossing over the divide and heading towards Susanville the scenery changed yet again as the surrounding area became more arid and the presence of sage became more noticeable. This eastern stretch of our loop took us past Eagle Lake and on up to Adin for a look at the Ash Creek Wildlife Area. 

We had read about this spot in the excellent guide book Birding Northern California by John Kemper but were unable to drive the circuit route that is described because of road closures. The wildlife area sits in another large wide valley and exists because of the sizable marsh that is created by a number of creeks that converge in the area. Sora and Virginia Rail were present here as well as Wilson’s Snipe. Perhaps the best moment of this visit came when Jeff pointed out a lone tree in the distance and mentioned that if there were any owls in the area they would be in that tree. Sure enough, as we approached the tree we found several sets of eyes looking back at us, a pair of Great Horned Owls. This prompted us to investigate a dilapidated barn where we found a nice pair of Barn Owls.

Finally, as we were driving out we came upon a Golden Eagle sitting on a power pole just above our heads. He was reluctant to leave but did so as we drove past. A moment later we discovered what may have made him reluctant to leave. About 50 feet off the road in a field of alfalfa a head popped up, it was a fox! He looked at us for a moment then bounded off back into the field. As he fled he was joined by two others. They looked like dolphins in the ocean, appearing and disappearing as they bounded through the field. They could have easily been on the Eagle’s menu. I’d like to think that we saved them (or one of them anyway) from becoming a snack. 

We continued on down Highway 299 stopping in Fall River Mills for a reported Bank Swallow colony 100 yards east of the Fall River bridge on the north side of the road. Sure enough it was there and well occupied. Our last stop of the day would be Burney Falls for the Black Swifts that nest there. On our way we spotted another Bald Eagle soaring over Hat Creek Park. What I found particularly interesting about this part of the state was the different shelves of flat land that you step down one at a time as you move west on 299. There really isn’t a steady gradual incline as you move west to east. Each step brings you something new either in the environment or the sights.

Arriving at Burney Falls at the end of the day we had time to do the falls loop trail and had many good looks at the Black Swifts nesting there. We were hoping to pick up a Dipper as we had somehow managed to miss them at our previous stops. That however was not to be. There always has to be one or two that get away without being seen. We did see an interesting if somewhat distressing site on the hike. A Cassin’s Vireo feeding 2 Brown-headed Cowbird chicks. They had fledged but were still demanding the grubs. That’s nature.

Burney Falls

We eventually made our way to Red Bluff for the night and the shower was welcome. The next morning as we started for home we detoured to Bidwell-Sacramento State Park on the off chance we might get lucky and see a Yellow-billed Cuckoo. No such luck but we found some nice birds there and we met Joan Robins who is an accomplished nature photographer. You can see her work at https://www.joanrobins.com/ . Some very impressive photos from all over the world but mostly from her home territory around Chico.

That wraps up another great trip. I didn’t think we would break 100 species but we did. I’m looking forward to our next journey. Perhaps back to where things started in Humboldt County, I hear they still get good birds there!