Spring in the Mojave - April 2022

*I finally got this write-up done!

Every year come spring, there awakens in me the very strong desire to go adventuring in the desert. For me that almost always has meant the Mojave Desert in Southern California. Maybe it is the desire to find some warmth after the winter season, the excitement of a road trip with friends, or perhaps the certain knowledge that migration is beginning and there will be good and sometimes great birds to be seen. Bottle this all together and you create the circumstances that have taken me to the northern edge of the Mojave year after year to begin a springtime journey at Butterbredt Springs.

There is a certain magic about Butterbredt which I can trace back to my first visit there in the early 1990s with Michael Morris. We were on our way to Arizona for a spring trip and Michael had heard about the spring from his local birding community and was told that it was a must-visit spot for any serious birder traveling through this region. We arrived there in the afternoon, not the ideal time of day, but our stroll through the spring and then down the wash was exceptional and was highlighted by a tree full of about 10 Long Eared Owls. That kind of sighting will lend any place a certain magical aura that will stick with you for the rest of your days. Every time I drive the road into Butterbredt there is that anticipation and excitement that is driven by the question, “What are we going to see this time?”

Butterbredt Spring

Once again this year we were a little early for spring migration as the date of my trip was determined not by when the best time to go would be, but by my school district’s determination of when spring break would occur. The good news is that this would be the last time that would happen as this was my last year teaching before retirement. In planning for this trip I plotted out a circular route we could follow that began at Butterbredt and took in two other places I had longed to visit, Big Morongo Canyon Preserve and the Mid Hills Campground region of the Mojave National Preserve. Joining me as he so often has these last few years was Jeff Manker who took time out from planning for his upcoming wedding to get in one last pre-marriage birding trip. Jeff has now moved up to Alameda so that is where we would begin our trip list.

We began with his local patch that includes the shoreline of San Francisco Bay. This is a strategy that is sure to pad any desert trip list. Our highlight here was the large number of Elegant Terns that were roosting on the jetty across the inlet. After this we headed for Bakersfield, picking up roadside sightings of Wild Turkey and Cattle Egret on the way. When traveling this route a stop at Kern National Wildlife Refuge is always a good idea so we made it our lunch stop. We drove the auto tour route and picked up most of our waterfowl species for the trip. I have to say that the NWR system is one of the hidden gems of the American public lands collection. The system is under stress in California due to drought and climate change but it remains critical to the health and survival of many important resident and migratory bird species. One way birders can support this system is to purchase a Duck Stamp each year. Possession of the stamp covers entry into any National Wildlife Refuge that requires a fee and supports the valuable conservation work the Fish and Wildlife service does. You can get more information and purchase your stamp here.

Later that afternoon we arrived in Bakersfield, went to Beale Park to check out the Rose Ringed Parakeets, and stayed once again with my gracious mother-in-law. Then it was up early to head to the Mojave and Butterbredt Spring. As previously mentioned we were too early for the peak of spring migration so our list here was a bit sparse. Our highlight here was what we believed to be a Gray Flycatcher. We puzzled over this id but this was our conclusion after reviewing the guides and studying the pictures. From the northern edge of the Mojave we headed due south and made for Big Morongo Canyon Preserve. On the way we stopped and birded the county park at the Mojave Narrows.

Jeff at the Narrows

This was an interesting place with plenty of water and riparian habitat. It also had a lot of wind which made things challenging. For me the highlight here were Vermillion Flycatchers, beautiful birds that I had not seen in some time. We birded, had lunch and then played a few holes of disc golf - Jeff crushed me.We got to Morongo Valley, had dinner and then drove up into Joshua Tree National Park for a dusk walkabout. This walk showed us again that we were a little early as it failed to turn up anything other than a few regular residents.

The next day began with our visit to the Big Morongo Canyon Preserve. Situated at the southern edge of the Mojave Desert, the canyon is a transition from the Mojave to the Colorado Desert below and represents one of the largest cottonwood and willow riparian habitats in California.

Trail heading south from the Preserve into the Canyon

It is a birder’s delight with trails and boardwalks snaking through the preserve. We had been concerned by the winds but fortunately for us our morning visit came before the wind rose. Highlights included: Plumbeous Vireo, Verdin, Costa’s Hummingbird, White-winged Dove, Nashville Warbler, Bell’s Vireo, Vermillion Flycatcher, and Phainopepla. Next time I visit here I hope to hike the entire canyon from top to bottom. As we ate lunch in the parking lot we considered our options. Our plan had been to head back north to the eastern region of the Mojave however the weather forecast was not favorable predicting high winds and cold temperatures at night. With that in mind we opted for a dash to the south and Anza Borrego State Park. This drive took us south through Palm Springs where we made a stop at an e-bird location for an Abert’s Towhee that we didn’t see; however, this proved to be a very interesting stop. We were on the western side of Palm Springs on the slope above town leading towards the tramway and looking into a fenced-off undeveloped property on the edge of a pretty high-class neighborhood. There were lots of Western Kingbirds, a Hooded Oriole, and a Roadrunner walking across the street but probably the most unusual sighting was the 50+ Great and Snowy Egrets roosting in the desert scrub on the hillside. Very strange.

Heading further south we made for Borrego Springs and a stop for the night. On the way we picked up a nice roadside Prairie Falcon and then took a side trip to Clark Dry Lakebed to see the nesting Bendire’s Thrasher that had been reported there throughout the spring.

Prairie Falcon

That evening after dinner we noticed that there was a lighted ballfield on the edge of town and theorized that there may be Nighthawks working the area. We only had to spend about 5 minutes waiting until one flew over the field.

We were up early the next morning and off to Culp Valley Campground in Anza Borrego State Park to go after Jeff’s nemesis bird. For the uninitiated, a nemesis bird is one that everyone else seems to see with little effort but you, for the life of you, can’t seem to get a look at. We’d missed it at Butterbredt Spring and we missed it again here. The bird? - The Mountain Quail. We have heard them calling multiple times and even once later in this trip in Upper Butterbredt Canyon, but no sightings. We had a few good birds here including California Thrashers, another Roadrunner and a Cactus Wren. From here we went to Palm Canyon, a famous palm oasis near the park visitor center. We were last here in the mid 1980s during our first NAS Bird-a-thon. Fire has passed through the canyon several times since that time and the scares are quite evident. However, the oasis is recovering nicely and we had an excellent morning birding this hotspot. We had Costa’s and Anna’s Hummingbirds, a Cooper’s Hawk, Warbling Vireo, Nashville Warbler, Loggerheaded Shrike, Black-throated Sparrow, Black-throated Gray Warbler, Wilson’s Warbler, and Western Tanager to name a few.

Borrego Palm Canyon

After another parking lot lunch we were on the road for the long drive to Mid Hills Campground in the northeastern corner of the Mojave National Preserve. We did take a brief stop at the Joshua Tree NP visitor center where we picked up a Black Tailed Gnatcatcher. Continuing on we made for Mid Hills where there were a few target birds we were hoping to get, namely Gilded Flicker, LeConte’s Thrasher, and Juniper Titmouse. We had also hoped to get a look at a Common Poorwill. It was a mad dash racing the sun and we got to the area only a little before sunset. We walked around the campground and could not add anything to our list except a Northern Flicker.

Looking west from Mid Hills Campground - Mojave National Preserve

Our final day would take us back to Butterbredt and then over the ridge and north to the Kern River Preserve. The Spring gave us very similar results to our visit a few days earlier, not even the usual Chukars made an appearance for us. In leaving Butterbredt we decided we would take the narrow track to the top of the canyon and over into the Kelso Creek drainage. As we neared the pass we picked up a Ladder-backed Woodpecker and a Prairie Falcon but what was most intriguing, the call of the Mountain Quail just up the slope from the road. We beat the bush in hopes of seeing it but alas no, it will remain Jeff’s nemesis. Coming down from the pass through a forest of Joshua trees we heard a call we had not yet heard on this trip and was not familiar to us. We turned to a tool I have been using more of lately to help us with the ID. This is the Merlin bird ID app from Cornell. What I most use it for is its ability to identify a bird by sound. It came back with a result of Scott’s Oriole so we were out of the truck and scanning. Sure enough, working through the top of a Joshua tree about 100 yards away we found him. While Merlin is not 100% accurate it can be a very helpful tool in the process of identification. Feeling very pleased with ourselves we headed down to the Kern River Preserve on the South Fork of the Kern River just upstream from Lake Isabella. This is the first time in several years I have been able to get into the preserve’s headquarters area. Either flooding or the long covid closure have kept me out. We began of course by having lunch and then talked with a volunteer who was doing some clean-up work. It seems that the pandemic has taken a toll on this great preserve and they were just starting to get back on their feet again. The afternoon winds came up and made birding this fabulous riparian habitat a challenge but we walked some of the trails and visited ‘Migrant Corner’ before beginning our return trip to the Bay Area.Over the course of our 5 days of birding we counted a total of 160 different species. Not a bad effort but I can’t wait until next year when we can do this in mid- May. One month later in the year could make a significant difference in our species list. Finally, I get to decide when to go (as long as it's ok with Danette!)