In Search of the Black-backed Woodpecker

The summer of 2013 will be remembered as my search for the Black-backed woodpecker. This elusive bird was the focus of our earlier trip to northeastern California and the Warner Mountains. While the trip was an unqualified success, we did not see the woodpecker. Over my many years as a birder I have been in plenty of prime habitat for this species but for whatever reason have not seen any so when I read on the listserv of a nesting pair on a creek in the Desolation Wilderness I thought this might be my best chance yet. I couldn't drop everything and make the trip so I had to wait a few days for the chance and I also convinced Pat that a little creek exploring would be a fun adventure.

I have been a backpacker for longer than I have been a birder and have favored the Sierra Nevada over all other places for hiking and camping. Of the many wilderness areas in the Sierra the Desolation is probably the most visited due probably to its location near the Tahoe area and the fact that it takes only 2 1/2 to 3 hours to get to a trailhead from the Bay Area. Perhaps it has to do with my desire to be away from crowds that I have made a point of avoiding the Desolation. After our day hike here I would confirm that you will see more people, however, I would also say that all those years of avoidance have been my loss. So many of the great writers of the west write about the power of wilderness to work upon the human spirit, their words and arguments are full of images and examples and are far more eloquent than my own. Suffice it to say that whenever I am able to get myself into the wilderness it is like a cleansing shower after a long day of physical labor. Even, I discovered, if it is just for a day hike in the Desolation Wilderness.

The Lyons Creek trail is the most southwestern trailhead of the Desolation and is easily accessed from Highway 50. It is a beautiful hike along a creek through lodgepole forest and meadow and leads to the western face of Pyramid Peak. After arriving at the trailhead at 8 am we set off in search of the location of the nesting pair of Black-backed woodpeckers. The description we were given was very accurate and we found the nest hole in the middle of the creek bed with little difficulty.  We waited for about 10 minutes on the granite ramps of the creek downstream from the hole and were rewarded by first the male with a bill full of insects for the chicks and then a little later the female with the same. Judging by the size of the bills of the chicks sticking out of the nest hole, it won't be much longer until they leave the nest. After sticking around and watching and photographing them for a while we continued along the trail heading east towards Pyramid Peak. As I mentioned this is a beautiful and easy hike, we had an excellent wildflower display and many good sightings of the regular bird residents of the Sierra's west slope. Perhaps the secret to hiking the Desolation is to start early as we saw no one hiking in but passed several groups on our way out. I will be returning soon.